Way Up North

Working my way through the Northern Hemisphere

Long Roads

June 2: Banff to Jasper

I had reasonable time to check out from the International Hostel in Banff. The bus departure point was just up the road outside a larger hotel. The “bus” in question was a smaller tour bus rather than a coach, which picked up six of us travellers.

“View From Moving Bus”, artist unknown.

We headed north, along the same road through Banff National Park I’d been on for my inadvertent Icefields tour. Again, we stopped at Lake Louise Village. (This time, I knew where to buy the faster snacks.)

Bow Lake still covered in ice.
Our bus waiting for everyone at Lake Peyto.

We did stop at the Athabasca Falls further on. This a powerful waterfall where the water roars through tight channels into gulleys and tunnels below.

Full power.
Crashing down…
… through narrow passages…
… and rapids out the other side.

As we got closer to Jasper, we noticed large sections of forest with denuded trees.

The naked forest.

Shortly afterwards, we arrived in Jasper. Like Banff, it’s an alpine town and tourist spot. I got set up at the local hostel, then had a look around.

Downtown Jasper.
First Nations monument in the central square.
A common sight in the Alberta towns: bear-proof rubbish bins. You have to put your hand inside the latch and push a button to open the top hatch.
Another common sight in shops around here.
Jasper Bear, a town mascot from ages ago.
Jasper has a gondola too. (I didn’t go on this one.)
Jasper mural.

One thing I noticed immediately was a whole mountainside of denuded trees. Jasper was one of the towns caught in the huge Canadian fires in January and it still bears the scars.

More a forest of sticks than trees.
Many houses were destroyed in the fires too. Some are being rebuilt.
Others haven’t started rebuilding yet.

Over the railway tracks towards the outskirts of town, temporary housing and remnants of the fire were still around.

Temp housing. Not sure how many people still live in them.
Burnt trunks and other leftovers from the fires.

Had a drink at a nearby pub, but I was only here for a night, so I got back to the hostel, read a bit, then went to bed.

June 3: Jasper to Prince George

Even more reasonable time to get ready, pack and leave the Jasper hostel.

Another Jasper mural.
Farewell Jasper Square.

Down at the railway station, I checked in my case, then got on board the Scenic Adventure Route to Prince George.

Jasper Railway Station.

The train took the usual moderate-to-ambling speed like its eastern counterpart. Travelling through the Rocky Divide, we saw mountain forests and lakes under sunny skies.

Gazing at pine and fir landscapes on a comfortable train is much more how I envisioned my Canadian holiday.
Forward window view.
Yellowhead Lake under blue sky.

Once or twice, a train attendant would yell “Bear on right window!” or “Deer on left window!”, but, of course, by the time you looked, you were past that spot.

The Trans-Canadian Highway follows us.

Another great feature of the train was the Dome Car, where you could get an aerial view.

Sitting in the Dome Car.
Aerial forest view.

The disadvantage of all this is that it’s a long journey, and there’s not Internet access for most of it. Fortunately, I could rely on my ripped DVDs; I watched The Road to El Dorado and started on the first two episodes of Clannad.

As with the earlier train trips, this one ran late, mainly due to having to stop the train for several minutes every so often so that a freight train could come the other way.

Reached McBride about half-way through the journey.
Approaching seven hours, signs of civilisation at last.

I got into Prince George after 7:00pm (again with emails from VIA Rail announcing arrival would be late). The sky by this time was looking doubtful, so I called a taxi to take me to Bon Voyage Inn. This and the rest of my stays on the trip will be in motels and inns because I couldn’t find many hostels in this part of British Columbia.

Down the south end of Prince George.

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