Way Up North

Working my way through the Northern Hemisphere

Banff the Damff

May 31: Sulphur Cave

As predicted, the sky was steadily pouring come the morning. I’m glad I took the gondola yesterday instead of today.

Today summed up.
Drizzle Street.
Rain radar for the whole day. Note that it includes snow.

Not wanting to stay inside all day, I donned my jacket again and walked south through Banff on the road towards Cave and Basin. Signs along the path warned me to be wary of mother elk in the area.

Bow River in full flow.
Approaching Cave and Basin.

After a long walk through the drizzle, I reached the Cave and Basin site. First up was the gift shop, which was shut.

Weekend tourists not that important, it seems.

Further up the track was the actual Cave and Basin Centre.

The cave in question is an underground thermal spring, used by indigenous people for centuries, then “discovered” by three railway workers in 1883. Seeing potential profit, they began charging people to use the “medicinal” waters. Later, the government stepped in and this lead to the creation of Banff National Park.

Inside the centre, I first read displays about the history of the site.

Both with a Raiders of the Lost Ark feel.

Then I went through the passage to the cave.

Entering the tunnel.
Mind your head.

The thermal pool at the bottom of the cave is full of steamy water with a faint sulphur smell (hence Sulphur Mountain, Banff Springs Hotel, etc). Above the pool is the vent where the cave was first found.

The Cave, with its thermal pool.
The Vent on the roof of the Cave.

Visitors are asked not to put their hands into the water, so as not to disturb the habitat of the Banff Spring snail, a rare mollusc only found in this area.

There used to be more stalagmites and stalactites here, but people took then as souvenirs over the years.

After the cave, I visited the Long Room. The site formerly had a swimming pool with water heated from the springs and the Long Room was its changing area. It’s now contains displays and artworks.

The ceiling once had glass tiles, but they were covered with tar paper when they started leaking.
How the National Park was developed.
Display of a 1950s camper, which was out of commission at the time.
The Springs Hotel strikes again.

Outside was the former pool, now covered over (twice).

Covered first in 1975, reopened 1985, recovered 1992. Now a platform for murals.

Next to this was The Basin, a natural pool fed directly by the spring. It’s now exclusively the home of the snails and other local wildlife.

The Basin.
“Medicinal waters”? Yeah, right.

Despite the rain remaining irksome, I took a look at the upper decks.

Old Pool from above.
This should have such a lovely view, but…

Then I followed the path into the forest, seeing the Vent and other springs.

The top of The Vent.
Another thermal spring, in the forest.

By that time, the cold, wet weather was getting to me, so I took a bus back into town, got back to the hostel and stayed inside for most of the rest of the day. I updated the blog and watched a YouTube interview of Marcia Lucas, the Star Wars film editor who died a few days ago. Popped out briefly to top up supplies when the rain abated a little.

June 1: More of the Same

Still raining the same degree this morning; whole town full of tourists and locals in various shades of puffer jackets.

This morning, I went to the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum. It’s dedicated to the culture and heritage of the Blackfoot, Nakoda and other local First Nations people.

Inside were displays of clothing, moccasins, regalia; of peace pipes, arrows, artwork. There were dioramas showing tribes as family groups, and groups hunting buffalo by driving them off cliffs. And there were movies showing how indigenous people are reclaiming their heritage. I wasn’t sure if taking photos there would be respectful, so I took none inside.

Outside, I headed back into town over the smaller Nancy Pauw Bridge. The Bow River was in almost full flood.

All the rain must go somewhere.
Overflowing the banks in places.
More local sculpture.

I briefly took shelter at the public library. They had a few DVDs for sale, including one for Speed. Being Canadian, this release included its French title, Claches. I looked this up and translations were either “latches” or “lanyards”. I don’t get it either.

Again, spent most of the afternoon indoors updating the blog and watching a few videos. When the rain abated later, I went out for a while and noticed the fresh snow coating the mountaintops.

A light dusting.

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