May 16: Au Revoir, Québec

My train to Montreal wasn’t until 12:30pm, so I had plenty of time this morning to get ready. I said au revoir to the traveller who’d replaced the other traveller in my room halfway through yesterday, and walked out of the strange little self-serve hostel. The nearest bus route wasn’t running on Saturdays, but there were other routes on the nearby larger road and I’d finally figured out how to read the RTC website, so I hadn’t too long a wait.

Down in the central city, I took my bags passed now-familiar shops to Gare du Palais. Still had plenty of time, so I updated my blog in the waiting area. A little after 12:30, the train to Montreal was announced and I joined the crowd wheeling their bags onto the platform.

VIA Rail trains that run through central Canada work differently from those out east. Rather than staff putting your checked baggage on a separate carriage, passengers have to bring them into their assigned car and store them in a large luggage alcove. The train interiors feel more like that of an aircraft, although there’s more room between seats.

The train began to move and I watched the city turn to outskirts turn to countryside.

When the countryside became monotonous, I finished re-watching FLCL; it’s interesting how I pick up a few new things every time I watch it.

Into Montreal

After stops in Drummondville and Saint-Hyacinthe, we pulled into Gare Central in Montreal. Once up the escalator, I was in the main underground foyer.

I stopped to get a coat out of my case, then headed upstairs and onto the streets, looking for the local Metro station.

Around me were hundreds of people in red, white and blue uniforms, all heading in the same direction. Clearly, a big sporting event was on tonight.

I found the entrance to the local Metro station, when I sensed my back felt suspiciously light. I fast-retraced my steps, pulling my large bag behind me, back to the train station where the ticket office had my backpack waiting. This should impress upon me that on holiday we are not in a hurry!

The Metro system here works much the same as other places: I bought an “Opus” card and could just touch on. I’d worked out that taking the Orange Line two stations would take me to just a few blocks from my hostel. Outside, I had to cross over a park, Place des Montréalaises, then walk into the Old City, with its classic buildings and cobblestone streets.

The Hostel, Alt Hostel, works like most of them. One Canadian difference is that shoes must be left at the door. The receptionist explained that yes, there was a big sporting event on tonight: the Montreal Canadiens, the local NHL team, were playing The Boston Bruins for the playoff. And The Grand Prix would be running in Montreal later in the week. And it was a long weekend, Monday 18 being National Patriots’ Day. So I’d come at an auspicious time.

Another quirk of the hostel was that my dorm wasn’t in that building; I had to walk a couple of doors down, type a door code to unlock it, climb a stairway to a landing, type another door code, remove my shoes and climb another staircase to get there. I was assigned a top bunk in a group of six.

A Wander Around Partytown

After I’d got settled, I found the hostel laundry and got some long-needed washing done first. After that, I wandered out onto the cobbled streets of the Old City amid light rain. Right across the road was this mass St Paul’s-like structure called Marché Bonsecours. It was once a public market, now converted into a conference centre and a mall for fancy shops.

The street I was on, Rue St-Paul, was full of people enjoying the long weekend. The NHL game had started, and cheers, boos and shouts roared out of every pub. The shops were lined with NHL and Grand Prix merch.

After getting a few supplies, I went towards Vieux Port, Old Port, the former port now turned into a recreation area. Past food and merch vendors, I came to La Grande Roue, the big wheel, now decked in F1 livery.

Past that, there was a techno rave.

I got as far as the Old Town Clock, before looping back and heading to bed.

May 17: Biosphere

Being part of Quebec province, Montreal is also Francophone, but not as strongly as Québec City; many signs have English as well, but usually written in smaller letters than the French. That and the city having a subway system rather than just buses means I can get around much easier.

My first intended venue was Basilique Notre-Dame. There were still plenty of people enjoying the holiday. Many impressive old buildings and architecture to admire as I walked there.

As I reached Place d’Armes, the square in front of the basilica, I found a large crowd had gathered there, with police cars at the edges. Just outside the basilica steps, several members of the armed forces were in formation, getting ready to march. I realised this must be part of the Patriots Day celebration. After some initial steps, the drums beat out and the troupes marched away, followed by many in the crowd.

Being Sunday morning, the Basilica had mass on and wasn’t open to tourists at the time, so I decided to return later.

I walked through several suburbs in the central city, admiring the wide streets.

Eventually, I ended up in the Quartier Latin, an artsy neighbourhood that’s also home to Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM), so it’s very student-orientated.

My reason for being there was to find the Yellow Metro Line for my next destination: Île Sainte-Helene, on which was Parc Jean Drapeau, on which was The Biosphere.

The Biosphere was a geodesic dome built for Expo 67, which took place on the island. It was the USA’s pavilion, designed by Buckminster Fuller. It’s since been converted into an environmental museum. Unfortunately, the upper sections were being renovated and were thus inaccessible, so I contented myself with looking through the exhibitions on water conservation and innovations in saving energy.

Habitat 67

The neighbouring island, Île Notre-Dame, was off-limits, as that’s where the Grand Prix will be held in a few days. (Such a shame you can’t be here, Colin.) Instead, I wandered further down Parc Jean Drapeau, as families and cyclists glided by. Had a coffee and muffin at a café where a staff of two was struggling to keep up with the number of customers.

I headed along the waterfront path, alongside a beautiful river view and an abandoned Expo 67 pavilion, onto Pont de la Concorde. Crossing the bridge, I had an impressive view of the St Lawrence River.

And on the other side of the bridge was my next destination: Habitat 67, an housing complex consisting of cubic apartments stacked in a random-looking manner. It was built for Expo 67 and is the only “pavilion” from that which has survived intact. Not only is it a Montreal landmark, but people still live there today. God knows what they think of the busloads of Chinese and Japanese tourists I saw pull up alongside to have their photos taken there.

Basilica Again.

Going further would’ve taken my out of public transport range, so I walked back to Parc Jean Drapeau and took Yellow and Orange Metro trains back into the city.

Again I headed to Notre Dame Basilica, now open for visitors. This is one of those times I wish I had a better camera, because my iPhone 7+ can’t fully convey how beautiful it looks inside.

Along with the main altar, there are several smaller altars along the length of the basilica, along with many paintings.

On the back end of the basilica is a smaller chapel, Chapelle du Sacré-Coeur, with a huge bronze altarpiece that goes up to the ceiling. This chapel is strictly for prayer and they don’t permit photos to be taken there, but trust me, it’s stunning.

Outside the basilica, I watched a zither player woo the crowd on Place d’Armes.

Nearby, I came across the Museum of Illusions, so of course I had to have a look. This little museum has many optical illusions for you to try out.