May 10: Farewell Gander

The previous day started out cold and overcast, but later brightened over the afternoon. Consequently, I was surprised this morning to find I was faintly singed on my dome. Regardless, I got dressed, had breakfast, returned my key and called a taxi to pick me up from the Country Inn Motel.

My flight wasn’t until the afternoon, but there was nowhere else to go with the luggage in tow. In fact, the flight was delayed twice, so that I wouldn’t leave until after 5:15. I had my large case checked in. Unlike most airports, once checked in, I had to take the case myself over to the X-ray machine and wait until security gave the okay.

I decided to check out the International Lounge again. I discovered it has a mezzanine floor with displays giving more information about the history of Gander Airport and Operation Yellow Ribbon.

Treated myself to a pancake lunch at the airport café (which will serve you a double-helping of wine, but only filter coffee), then caught up with two more episodes of Ripping Yarns. Finally, check-in for our flight was opened. My carry-on bag was opened and given an internal cavity search, and my bottle of sunscreen was confiscated for being over the limit. (So how come it passed security from Vancouver?) More long waiting ensued. I tried to think of some play ideas, but ended up down internet rabbit holes

At last, we boarded the Pal turboprop and flew out of Gander. I had a window seat this time and got to see how big Newfoundland actually is. Spent the rest of the flight finishing Children of Men.

At last, we descended into Halifax Airport on a cold, wet day. The airport’s far from the city, but Halifax has actual bus services (and my phone signal was back). Had a quick bite to eat, set my timepieces half-an-hour back (yes) and took the 320 bus to downtown Halifax.

At Scotia Square, I had to walk several blocks to get to the hostel in wind and rain. Was very glad to have my ski jacket and umbrella. Pushing against the wind, through streets narrower than the wide spaces of Vancouver, put me in mind of Wellington on a bad night.

Eventually arrived at HI Halifax Heritage House. On seeing my large case, the receptionist offered to move me from the six-bed dorm on the second floor to a four-bedder on the first. I accepted, and discovered I had that dorm all to myself. (This is why you travel outside the tourist seasons.) The place is very clean and much is provided for you, e.g. lockers, towels, shampoo and conditioner, etc.

After settling in, I popped out briefly to a local convenience store. Not much there, but I got some breakfast supplies. Back at the hostel, I sat in the lounge and watched other guests watch an ice hockey game and debate about it in French.

May 11: Atop the Hill

The morning was overcast but clear, though the weather still moody; still gives me the impression of Wellington.

I walked up Barrington Street to The Old Burying Ground, an old cemetery now surrounded by the city. It was created by early pioneers in 1749 and was closed for burials in 1844, after about 12,000 people had been buried there. It’s full of old gravestones, some barely legible.

But my main destination was much higher up. After marching up some steep streets, I reached the Halifax Citadel. It’s a huge stone fort built back in the 19^th Century to protect Halifax from potential threats, generally either the French or the Yanks (although Halifax was never attacked by either).

The first part reached was the Old Town Clock. This is a large clock tower built outside the front of the Citadel in 1803, visible to both soldiers and ships. The caretakers and their families used to live in it.

Then over the dry moat and into the vast parade square, surrounded by huge stone walls.

Throughout, visitors may enter into various rooms used at the time. Some were quarters, offices, gunpowder storage; there was even a sewing room, and a classroom to school some of the soldiers. One room displayed models of the four citadels that had been built on the site during the 18^th and 19^th Centuries.

Up on the ramparts, cannons were set to repel invaders.

Throughout the citadel were tour guides in period uniforms, who take tourists through the site daily. (Outdoor Shakespeare, eat your heart out.) One “soldier” loaded and shot a breechloader. Another took a group of us around the citadel, showing how it was defended and how different areas were used.

A series of exhibits in one of the buildings told of the development of Halifax, from its original inhabitants the Mi’kmaq (who ended up with raw deals and broken treaties), through conflicts with the United States and France, to Halifax’s role as a North Atlantic naval base in WWII.

At 12:00 every day, the “soldiers” fire a cannon from the front ramparts.

To those lost…

After I’d had my fill of the Citadel, I set off to Downtown to get a few supplies and some coffee.

The weather got cold and drippy again, so I sheltered for a while at Taz Records, a very well-supplied music store full of vinyl, CDs, cassettes and DVDs of all kinds. Bought a Cocteau Twins CD I’d been looking for.

Back on Barrington Street and after pondering the transit system, I got a bus heading north. The suburban architecture steadily got a little older, again with the basement-level windows. After a drop-off and a few blocks’ more walk, with my weathered cheap umbrella for protection, I reached Fairview Lawn Cemetery. Following the signs, I came to the graves of victims of the Titanic.

Most survivors and corpses were taken to Halifax first after the disaster. About 120 people are buried at the site, displayed with simple headstones (though some families paid for more elaborate ones).

Fairview Lawn also has another memorial: for the victims of the Halifax Explosion. In 1917, a French cargo ship full of explosives collided with another ship and blew up. The resulting explosion flattened most of north Halifax and killed over 1,700 people.

Checking the bus routes again, I headed back to the hostel. I’d wanted to see a few more things here, like the Bayers Lake Mystery Walls, but I doubt I have time for that now. I suspect there’ll be a few places on my list that I won’t get to see this holiday.